Deep Blue is sold through independent pet and fish retailers in the Eastern US.  We cannot sell or quote prices to the public.  For questions of pricing and product availability, please visit your local fish store.

First, check the power switch(es).  Next, access the bulb area and make sure the pins on the ends of the bulbs are making contact with the metal spring contacts in the housings.  Bulbs sometimes pop out of alignment.  If your fixture has a GFCI-style plug, push the ‘test’ and ‘reset’ buttons.  Make sure your electrical outlet is working by plugging the light into a different outlet that is known to have power.  Try replacing the bulbs with new or known working bulbs.  If none of these actions solve the problem, contact Deep Blue via email at info@deepblueprofessional.com for more help.

Send an email to info@deepblueprofessional.com and include details regarding your store’s location.  We will forward your information to the distributor for your area and a member of their sales staff will contact you shortly thereafter.

Unfortunately, we are unable to accept custom tank orders at this time.

We recommend changing the cartridge once per month, or more frequently if the buildup of debris and dirt appears to slow the flow of water through the filter.

Several generations of each of our light units have been made with different LED configurations.  If your light has removable LEDs that plug in and out with your fingertips, make sure the LEDs are firmly seated in the sockets.  Also check the power switches.  Later models are configured so that when the actinic blue fluorescent channel is lit, the LEDs are dark, and vice versa.  If none of these actions solve the problem, contact Deep Blue via email at info@deepblueprofessional.com for more help.

Most of our rimless tanks are made of standard glass, while our Edge Series tanks include a front panel of OptiPure low-iron glass which provides increased clarity and color transmission for a more natural-looking aquascape.

The power supply used with the SolarFlare SX and DX strips contain capacitors that may need to ‘charge’ before flipping the power switch on the strip.  If your unit flashes, turn the switch to the off position, unplug the light, plug it back in, count to three then turn it on.  This should stop the flashing.

Deep Blue Reef-ready overflow systems employ 1”drain and ¾” return bulkheads, and are capable of up to 600gph.  Most size tanks have a single overflow column in the left-rear corner;  some edge tanks have a center-rear column, and our largest tanks have dual overflows in the rear corners for flow rates up to 1200gph.

Yes.  Heat Stik submersible heater models are designed to be completely submerged in the tank.  Leaving a significant portion of the heating element exposed to air can result in heater failure and possible breakage.  Models with a temperature adjustment in the end of the tube can be installed with the knob end out of the water, but unit should be submerged at least up to the water level marking on the tube.

There are many factors that can inhibit the performance of a chiller, including insufficient water flow from too small a pump, improper location of the chiller and improper position in the plumbing order.  Make sure you have a pump with a sufficient gallons-per-hour flow rate at the amount of head in your system (head is the length of pipe or tubing from the level of your pump to the end of the return.)  Also make sure that your chiller is the last appliance the water passes through before returning to the tank, make sure the chilled water goes directly to the tank and not into the sump, and never locate the chiller inside a cabinet or enclosure.  Improper installation is the #1 reason for inefficient or inadequate chiller performance.  Read the owner’s manual and consult with your local fish store’s reef tank professional for more assistance.

Tempered glass is specially heat-treated glass that will form numerous small pebbles of glass if it breaks, instead of forming dangerous sharp shards.  For this reason it is sometimes referred to as ‘safety glass.’  Tempered glass is stronger and safer than standard glass.  Many of our tanks larger than a 20 long have one or more tempered panels.  If you are planning to drill holes in a Deep Blue tank, it is important to check our Tank Specification Chart on our website to see if the panel you want to drill is tempered or not.  Tempered glass will shatter if you attempt to drill it.  You should also be aware that any drilling or alteration of a Deep Blue tank is done at the user’s risk and will void the warranty.

The silicone sealant used to build glass tanks is somewhat flexible, as are the glass panels of the tank.  When you fill a tank with water, the weight of the water puts pressure on the sides and bottom of the tank, and some flexing can occur.  This flexing can change the shape of micro-bubbles of air that were trapped in the sealant during the manufacturing process, making them seem to ‘appear’, when they actually just became more visible.  This phenomenon occurs in all glass/silicone tanks, but can be more apparent in the black silicone we use to make our tanks.  It is perfectly normal and will not affect the performance of your tank.

Replacement frequency depends on the bio-load in the tank.  The more fish you have, the more frequently a pad should be replaced.  Plain filter pads can be rinsed and reused several times, but carbon, ammonia, phosphate and nitrate pads will become chemically exhausted over time and should  be replaced at least once per month.

All Deep Blue Cabinets are held together with cam-lock hardware.  If your sump won’t fit through the doors of the cabinet, use a screwdriver to loosen the upper cam-locks inside the cabinet and lift the top panel off completely.  You can then lower the sump into the cabinet from above, then replace and re-lock the top panel onto the cabinet.

Deep Blue Phosphate Remover Pads are specifically designed for removal of phosphate buildup in marine aquariums.  Phosphate buildup is not a common problem in freshwater tanks, and using a phosphate remover product of any kind in fresh water can cause several rapid and dangerous changes to water chemistry that can result in a toxic environment for your fish.  We recommend the use of phosphate removers in saltwater tanks only.

Glass canopies are recommended for our framed tanks for several reasons.  A glass top protects your light from moisture and mineral buildup, which will reduce maintenance and prolong the life of your light.  A glass top also reduces water evaporation and helps prevent excitable fish from jumping out of the tank.

While we strongly recommend using Deep Blue exact replacement bulbs, you can replace the stock bulbs with other colors and brands.  It is vitally important that the SAME WATTAGE bulb be used, however.  Replacing a stock bulb with a different wattage lamp (such as installing high-output (H.O.) lamp in a high-efficiency (H.E.) fixture) can shorten the life of the fixture and lamp, and can result in ballast failure.

Remove the acrylic shield by sliding it out the open end of the light.  Twist the plastic end caps at each end of the bulb and slide them to the middle of the bulb.  Gently rotate the lamp until the contact pins are aligned with the slots in the sockets and slide the bulb out.  Move the caps from the old lamp to the new lamp and slide it into the slots.  Gently rotate the lamp until you feel the pins seat themselves in the electrical contacts, twist the end caps back into place and replace the acrylic shield.